“If you do it for the right reasons then you will win no matter what!”
Was it going to be easier or harder competing for a second year in the world cups? On one hand, you have the experience from the previous year and the knowledge of how it all works. On the other… Expectations can be higher…
I went into the comps this year feeling pretty good, Last year the highlight of the comps was qualifying equal first with the current world champion Dmitry Sharafutdinov in Innsbruck. After making semi finals I then ended up in 13th place both in Innsbruck and then in Vail. At the end of the year my standing in the world ranking was 28th.
This year I was obviously hoping to progress from last year and end up with a higher placing. Having only competed in one competition since Vail last year (Australian Bouldering Nationals) my competition experience was down and it was all a bit daunting turning up to my first World Cup of the year in Millau, France.
It ended up being a slow start to the season for me just missing out on semi finals and placing 21st in Millau. The next comp it was great to have fellow Australian Tom Farrell join me but once again I just missed out on semi finals again placing 23rd in Kitzbuhel.
My last world cup of the year was in Innsbruck, Austria the following weekend. We had breakfast in Slovenia, lunch in Italy and dinner at our destination in Austria!
The comp in Slovenia really took it out of me so we spent the week doing touristy things and unfortunately I was fighting a cold so didn’t get any climbing in until the comp. There were mixed feelings about this comp. I went in to it feeling confident but due to a mixture of reasons it didn’t work out as the best comp for me. In the heats I topped 3 boulders in 6 attempts but as the first boulder was not under cover and it started raining a quarter of the way through the heats they decided to scrap the first boulder form the comp… So my score was now changed to 2 tops in 5 attempts and all of the remaining competitors only had to do 4 boulders. Kind of sucks but they are the rules and after a debacle like that I’m sure that they will make sure it never happens again! By elimination the first problem it altered a lot of scores. It worked out great for some people and really sucked for some others. I finished up in 41st place for this comp.
It might seem crazy to place 5th in one comp and 41st in the next. But without being there you cant understand just how close it is between making the finals and coming 40th. All of the competitors there are absolutely amazing athletes and all deserve to be there. It only takes one little mistake to make all of the difference.
As it currently stands, I am sitting in 22nd place in the 2013 world cup ranking and that is a place I am bloody happy with! As with last year, I have learnt heaps and it was an amazing experience, which I will never forget.
I have gone away from this comps super inspired and ready to start training again. I know what my strengths are and have found some weaknesses to work on! If all goes well then I might compete in the full world cup circuit next year and compete in all 6 comps rather than only doing half of them like I did this year.
So was it easier or harder? Lucky for me, I climb for the right reasons so even though there are expectations from many people to perform, the ones closest to me and those I love are proud of me no matter what so all expectations were aside and I was just climbing with more experience and psych!
As always, I’m super psyched and I am honored to have been able to compete with not only so many other great climbers but also so many other great people! Looking forward to next year!
If you haven’t already… Then check out my comp report from Slovenia. (My first ever world cup final!!!)