TWO COMPS DOWN!

So as usual I have been slack in posting and this is only going to be a really small one so wont make up for it… (Better than nothing though!)

I have now competed in 2 bouldering world cups and have 2 to go this year.
The first was in Slovenia and the second was a couple of days ago in Vienna, I had a great time at both of them and felt quite good on the wall. I topped out on 2 boulders in the first comp in 8 attempts and then 3 boulders in 5 attempts in the second comp!

Still not enough to get anywhere good in the ranking game but still a lot of fun and I have heaps left in me!

Well we are about to jump into the car and make the 8 odd hour drive to Magic Woods so will re post some time when I get a chance out there!

Thanks to everyone for all of the suppor during the comps!

Take care and have fun!

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OUR TRIP SO FAR…

After 2 stopovers and about 48 hours of travel myself and Claire arrived in Munich which is where our Europe trip will both start and end…
Whilst it was only a brief stay in Munich we had a chance to visit Boulderwelt which is a great bouldering gym and enjoyed a quick session before heading to Slovenia.
We spent a couple of nights at Lake Bled before heading to Ljubljana where we are now and will be based for the first comp.
It’s been great to catch up with my old mate Chris and his fiancĂ© Alex and am psyched for the four of us to boulder together in Magic Woods after the comp in Vienna!

So… comp day is almost upon us… Tomorrow will my first ever bouldering world cup and the first of 4 that im competing in this year! It’s all very exciting and rather daunting at the same time… To be honest I have no idea what to expect but It’s going to be a great experience no matter what!!!

I will try and re post after the comp with details…

How is it all going to work??? (This is to the best of my understanding…)
Well there are about 74 male competitors and we have been split into 2 groups for the qualifying round.
This means that there are 2 sets of qualifying problems… 1 group gets one set of problems and the other group gets the other… The problems are completely different and we do not try the other groups problems. Both of the groups will be climbing at the same time. (So there will be 10 guys on the wall at the one time)

There are 37 guys in each group and the top 10 ranked competitors from each of the two groups will make up the 20 guys who make the semi finals! I am climbing 26th in group 2 and have bib number 23.

Each group gets 5 problems in the qualifying round and we have 5 minutes to attempt each and then a 5 minute rest between each problem…

The comp is being streamed live and can be seen here http://WWW.IFSC.TV/ (We are 8 hours behind Melbourne time)
And a starting list can be found here: http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?page_name=resultservice&comp=1387&cat=ICC_MB

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EUROPE… AMERICA… SOUTH AFRICA… HERE WE COME!

2012 so far… Where do I start? Lets try at the start!
As always, life is fantastic!!! I spent new years in Sydney and was there for a few weeks with my amazing girlfriend Claire. Weather wasn’t great but we got out climbing when we could and got plenty of walks in. I was fortunate enough to have been involved with helping coach some of Australia’s Junior World Cup hopefuls including some of the juniors I train at Bayside Rock.

2012 has involved lots of work and heaps of training! Mid last year I decided that I wanted to try my luck on the international bouldering circuit and enter some of the 2012 bouldering world cups…
Hence the work (to save) and the training (to try get strong)!

Between myself and Will the psyche has been high and the training hard! Who knows if it will help with the funky setting im sure to get at the comps… One thing for sure is that its been a hell of a lot of fun and Will for one is crushing harder than ever!!!

On the 15th April myself and Claire depart Sydney. After stopping over in Johannesburg and then Dubai we will finally arrive in Munich where we will start the Europe leg of our trip! After getting ourselves settled in Europe we will make the drive to Slovenia for the first of my comps… More details to come as it happens!

What else am I doing over there?
Well I have entered 4 bouldering comps… 1 in Slovenia, 2 in Austria and 1 in the USA. In between the comps there will be a little touristy stuff and plenty of time playing on real rock. We are then finishing off our trip in South Africa (mostly Rocklands) where we will be joined by Will!

Super psyched and very excited for this 3 month trip with Claire!!!

Will try and keep my blog up to date with whats happening while we are away and photos to accompany.

Cheers,
James

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HUECO VIDEO

I know… Its been ages since I made a post! But this is still going to be a quick one!
Here is a video that I put together from my Hueco Trip.

 

BD athlete James Kassay bouldering in Hueco Tanks, Texas from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

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WHEEL OF LIFE…

So… On Wednesday 7th September 2011 I successfully completed the Grampians bouldering test piece, the Wheel of Life!

People have been asking about my history with the problem so I may as well tell all…
I first visited Hollow Mountain cave back in September 2001 when I was 16 years old.
I completed the first of the 4 problems that make up the wheel in January 2002 (Cave Man).
In April 2003 I completed both the first half and second half of the wheel and it was then that the whole problem caught my eye.
In the following 8 years I have been to the cave on many occasions and have of course played on the problems and attempted the wheel many times. I have always gone through phases of being psyched on it and then other times where I have walked away for anywhere up to 12 month at a time uninspired or just over it… When it started becoming a chore I decided to leave it for a time that I could enjoy it for what it is rather then doing it because I felt that I had to.

Call me stubborn, crazy or out right stupid if you must but climbing the full length of the cave wasn’t just a matter of getting from one end to the other the easiest possible way. Ethan was confused as to why I didn’t want to use the “easier beta” of putting on knee pads and milking the knee bar rests that are otherwise impossible to use…
Ultimately I set myself a personal goal and that was the way I was going to do it.

To me, it was never a matter of ‘IF’ I was going to do it but a matter of ‘WHEN’…

I know that there are a lot of people out there who are going to give me a hard time (more over the internet than in person) about how long it took me to complete the Wheel of Life but to be honest I couldn’t care a less what they have to say! There are currently only 3 people who could honestly give me a hard time… Dai Koyamada, Chris Webb Parsons and Ethan Pringle! (The only other people to have completed this problem)
If anyone else wants to give me a hard time then they are more than welcome to come, complete the problem in a shorter amount of time and then ill listen to what they have to say…

Is that it for me in the cave??? No way! I may have completed the Wheel of Life but for me that was never the line… The Wheel of Life bails out right at the end of the cave and takes the shorter path. My line of choice will take the direct finish up the highest point of the cave… Will it add another grade? No… It wont. But it is a harder finish and a more impressive line to take! I hope to get the FA of this in the not too distant future…

What grade do I think it is??? Thats a great question… Im not a route climber and as such am not going to give it a route grade. I figure that Dai has a pretty good idea on things so im going to run with his V16/ 8c+. Im not doing it for the grade but I sure as hell will take it!

Whats next for James Kassay??? Well whats the fun in giving everything away??? Lets just say it involves lots of bouldering, a few international flights and maybe some competing…

Until next time… Climb Hard, Have Fun and ALWAYS remember to smile!!! :)

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FORCED ENTRY DIRECT V11

Here is a quick video of Forced Entry Direct V11 from the weekend!

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SMITTEN TEAM TEASER

Here is a Team Teaser for the up and coming ‘Smitten the movie’

Smitten the movie. Team Teaser Five. from Smitten the movie on Vimeo.

More details here: http://www.facebook.com/Smittenthemovie

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ALMA BLANCA V13 / 8b

Here is a quick video I put together while on the road of myself bouldering ‘Alma Blanca’ V13 / 8b.

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HUECO PHOTOS

I have now been in Hueco for a few weeks and am feeling really quite good still (actually only getting stronger as the days go on!) Skin is slowing me down the most so I have decided to take a few rest days to recover so that I can try and go out with a bang in Hueco.

I was resting yesterday but still managed to flash ‘Sunny Side Up’ V12 / 8a+ (Thanks for lending me your shoes and beta Chris!)

Have stayed in El Paso for the night and will rest up some more before heading back out to Hueco Tanks tonight.

Plan for tomorrow? Will head out to East Mountain/ Spur so that the others here can jump back on some of their projects. I will once again attempt to rest so that I can put everything into my last day on the rock. I plan on giving both Terremer and Desperanza a fair old crack…

Here are some photos of the trip so far. (There will be heaps of videos to follow!)

Cheers for now.

James Kassay.

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JUST ABOUT DONE!

The Hueco leg of my trip is nearing to an end… Just had 2 days on and am now resting for another two.

In the last couple of days I managed the following:

Esperanza V14 ~ 2 days
Terre De Sienne V13 2nd shot
Anal Intruder V11 2nd shot
El Techo V11 Flash
Loaded with Power V10 Flash

With only 1 solid day left on the rock I have to decide what to commit my skin to… After a couple of attempt on each yesterday I feel so bloody close to both Desperanza V15/ 8c and Terremer V15/ 8c!

Will re post in a couple of days with how I go… Wish me luck!

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